When I mention Jordan, it’s highly likely that the incredible desert scenery of the Wadi Rum and the ancient Nabatean city of Petra are the first things to spring to mind. Both are located in the south of the country, a parched area with deserts and bare mountains, where greenery is largely absent. 

But what if I told you that there’s a part of the country where olive groves, forest reserves and vegetable farms dominate the landscape with an abundance of green! 

The north of Jordan truly feels like a different country in every sense of the word, but travelling around here also means stepping off the beaten track. As the area is so quiet in terms of tourism, it’s very easy to have authentic and genuine experiences with local communities. A few examples of activities that we organise for our clients and that I was lucky enough to try myself recently include a cooking class with a local family, homestay lunches, beekeeping experiences, and hikes in the nature reserves with local guides…

The wide variety of experiences to be had is supplemented by world-class historical sites. 

Although the Roman city of Jerash still receives many visitors, the site does not feel super busy and is more than worth a trip north as it’s only an hour away from Amman, the capital of Jordan. If ruins are your thing, then there are plenty more sites, most of which you are likely to be visiting with no or very few other tourists around. Pella (aka Tabqet Fahel) and Umm Qais (aka Gadara) are two excellent archaeological sites in the region, and both are ancient Decapolis cities.

The beauty and variety of the north can be easily added on to any Jordan itinerary, as distances are quite limited, you could do quite a lot by adding on two nights already. Since any Jordan trip typically starts in Amman, travelling to the northern region is quick, as the longest drive will be only around 2 hours.

Beit al Baraka Guesthouse in the village of Umm Qais, is a small guesthouse with about 6 rooms and shared bathrooms. The house is beautifully decorated, very clean, with a garden and the possibility to eat outside under the fruit trees. The breakfast here is out of this world and worth the journey alone. From the rooftop terrace, and even some rooms, the incredible views stretch into Palestine and Syria (even Lebanon on a very clear day).

From the guesthouse, it’s a short walk/drive to the Umm Qais Roman city, cooking class with a local family and beekeeping experience. More activities in Umm Qais include nature hikes (long and short) and a plethora of handicraft workshops (stone masonry, basket weaving…).

Ajloun Forest Reserve Cabins is located, as the name gives away, in the Ajloun Forest Reserve. This area is protected by the RSCN (Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature), which manages wildlife and nature reserves around the country. They also provide support and a sales platform for local handicrafts (jewellery, art…) and artisanal products (soaps, olive oil, biscuits…). 

The cabins are basic, but equipped with all modern comforts like a bathroom, hot water and AC. Like anywhere else in Northern Jordan, you will eat very well at the Ajloun Forest Reserve cabins; dinners are pre-booked.

The views over the surrounding area are spectacular, and there is a wide range of hiking trails available from the cabins. Walking with a guide is recommended, as aside from the self-guided trail, signposts are absent. One of the hikes is the Orjan walk, taking about 2.5 hours, gentle downhill most of the time and finishing at Issa Dwekat’s guesthouse for a home-cooked lunch.

The reserve is also a particularly good place (for Jordanian standards) to go birding and learn about the local flora, such as wild fig trees, wild strawberry trees, wild pistachio and saffron flowers.